This is the third post in the series. The idea behind “Life in Squares” is to give people interested in Medium Format Photography, especially in the classic 6x6 format, some info regarding some of the popular, and maybe not-so-popular, options out there. All of the cameras that I plan on featuring are personally owned and shot by me (well, this post is a little different but read on) – my hope is that I can give some added perspective over and above the standard “gear reviews”. I’ll be honest about the good, and the bad………………and maybe along the way add some insights in regards to shooting in the beloved 6x6 square format.

Today’s post is a bit special, as I have a guest contributor to the blog - Mr. Doug Brand.

Doug is a local Dayton, Ohio real estate photographer who, in his spare time, also shoots on both medium and large format film. Some of Doug’s work can be seen on Instagram here and on Flickr here .

Take it away Doug!

I will start by saying that many of the vintage medium format film cameras are capable of producing better images than some photographers are capable of delivering. I fell under this category for quite some time and still do to a certain degree. They also are quite capable of mechanical failures that can require the skill of a shrinking pool of repair technicians and available parts.

I took black and white film photography 1 and 2 at Sinclair Community College in 2016 and 2017. After a couple of broken cameras I settled in with the Mamiya C33 with a 80mm f2.8 kit lens. Up to this point my experience with cameras had been point and shoots that I rarely used and mobile phone photography. Currently I shoot digital semi professionally as a Real Estate photographer. Some of the following images will indicate I don’t spend a lot of time pointing my camera at people.

On the rare occasions I get to shoot medium format film I reach for the Mamiya C330 almost exclusively. It is a more recent version of the C3, C33, C220… etc… The camera is about the size and weight of a brick. A HEAVY BRICK. Locally, if you are old enough you would remember a camera like this in a portrait studio from the 60’s thru maybe the late 80’s. I remember seeing a portrait studio photographer standing on a ladder looking down through the waist level viewfinder. In the image above it is the square part on top. It will allow you to see exactly what the top lens see’s (called the viewing lens). The taking lens is immediately below it. Built into the taking lens is a leaf shutter (B, 1 second thru 1/500th). The shutter will sync with flash at all shutter speeds. Also on the taking lens you find the aperture and aperture control (this lens is f2.8 thru f32). Also pictured left is the mid 70’s camera strap!!! Shagadelic huh?!? Note the tripod quick release plate on the bottom. Starting out with this camera plan on shooting a lot with a tripod.

Focusing with the C330 is almost otherworldly. F2.8 on a medium format camera is very shallow depth of field and everything renders backwards so it takes on a magical and bizarre vibe. And, Get ready for square.

Remember this, I was coming from being primarily a phone photographer with no skill. It will take 10 rolls of film to get used to the camera and who knows how many to live up to the potential of any good TLR (twin lens reflex) camera.

Rest assured a camera of this era has its limitations compared to a modern DSLR or mirrorless camera. Learn to meter, learn to compose and previsualize, learn to focus, learn the exposure triangle and how light, motion and depth are rendered by your choices. I say learn them because 120 film comes in a roll of 12 exposures when shot square. I have spoken with a photographer that went out to one event and had over a thousand images on their card. I exposed 5 frames and had to go back out to finish the roll. With the limited amount of shots you are going to be shooting and an actual incremental time and dollar amount and work of developing, scanning and or printing… you will learn to only try for images you really want. If you want to capture images of strangers, a camera like this has one decided advantage over a modern digital camera.

Friendly curiosity of your potential subject.

As you can imagine, a digital camera may elicit a different response. These were taken in the Oregon District in downtown Dayton, Ohio on a Sunday afternoon in 2016. They were among the first 10 rolls of getting acquainted with camera (this was the Mamiya C33).

The below image was taken in the Oregon District in in May of 2019. The shop was closed and this young lady appeared to be burning the midnight oil. (Mamiya C330)

I had a quick thumbs up from her when I knocked on the window and held up the camera with a quick thumbs up thumbs down gesture. I almost always look for at least a sign that the subject is aware and making no visible signs of being uncomfortable being photographed.

The below image is actually a darkroom print that was pseudo solarized or had Sabatier effect during the print process. Expose a negative onto a piece of photographic paper and develop the paper in a fairly spent developer for a shorter than normal duration. Remove the paper from the tray, squeezie the developer off and hold it under another light source for a brief period of time and continue to develop, stop and fix as usual. The process inverts the print to varying degrees.

As for rules of composition and shooting square… Give yourself permission to completely ignore the rule of thirds for at least a little while in your development as a photographer. Some of my most consistent and vocal criticisms I have received has been regarding my not following the rule of thirds. Some of my favorite images I have taken I summarily ignored the rule of thirds. I believe it is important to familiarize yourself with rules of composition then decide when to use them, and when not to.

Occasionally you will need to simply crop to a different ratio to get the desired image. (Mamiya C330)

The C series Mamiya Twin Lens Reflex cameras are also one of the few twin lens system cameras that have interchangeable lenses. There are a wide range of lenses and accessories available.

Convenient reference link...

http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Mamiya_C

If you want to slow down, learn to contemplate what you are shooting and why. Actually take the time to decide how deep or shallow a depth of field do I want? Do I want any motion blur etc… A totally manual camera may be just the tool to use to learn about photography. Any fully functioning C series by Mamiya may be just what you are looking for.