In the early 1960’s, many of the well-known European camera manufacturers were facing stiff competition from Japan and the influx of user-friendly 35mm SLR cameras.; forcing them to re-think their products, marketing, and what they knew about their consumers.

Franke and Heidecke in Germany was no exception. The company needed a camera that was user-friendly and cost-effective for photography enthusiasts, that was still worthy enough to carry the Rollei badge on the front. Their first attempt at such a camera was the Rollei Magic — produced from 1960 thru 1962 in the quantity of some 25K units, the Rollei Magic was a completely automatic camera, with shutter speed and aperture driven by the huge light meter at the top of the front of the camera. Unfortunately, because it was completely automatic, when the light meter wore out or failed, which they often did, the camera became a useless brick.

The Rollei Magic II, made from 1962 thru 1968, improved upon the first one by adding the option of shooting manually by either using the light meter as an un-coupled meter, or by using an external meter. Switch it back to Auto mode, and you had a fully automatic camera that only needed you to compose the scene, focus, and push the lever to capture an image.

In the page from the manual above, you can see several differences between the Rollei Magic II and its big brother, the Rolleiflex. On the diagram, “1” is the ASA/DIN selector used to tell the camera what film speed you are shooting with. Below it is the big Gossen light cell that gathers the light and decides on what combination of shutter speed and aperture is needed for a well-exposed image based on that film speed. “2” is the dial used to set the camera to the “Auto” mode, which also can be used to over-ride that and shoot in manual mode. “B” is the focusing wheel, which moves the taking and viewing lenses forward and back INSIDE of that front deck area. Unlike a Rolleicord or Rolleiflex, the front deck stays static and doesn’t move. “C” is the shutter lever - press all the way down to take the shot. It’s quiet, so you have to listen for the shutter click to know you’ve made the shot.

The Rollei Magic may look big, but it isn’t much bigger than its contemporary brothers, the Rolleicord and Rolleiflex. Here it is next to a later Rolleicord VB for comparison. It is slightly deeper, but height is about the same. It is a little heavier though. That extra weight is from the automatic bits and the way the focus rack system is designed.

Below are the specs for the Rolleicord Magic II:

• Production : from 1962 to 1968, about 12,600 units

• Viewing lens: Heidosmat 1:3.5 f=75mm Xenar-type

• Taking lens: Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar 1:3.5 f=75mm

• Filter Bayonet : Bay II

• Shutter: Prontor Prontormat-S model 602 k

• Automatic exposure: speeds 1/30 to 1/500 sec. at diaphragms 3.5 to 22

• Manual shutter settings : 1/30 sec. to 1/500 and B, both allowing diaphragms 3.5 to 22

• Lightmeter system : Gossen Selenium cell

• Film speed settings : 12 to 1600 ASA/ISO

• Dimensions 88 x 106 x 147 mm

• Weight: 1000 grams

Now that all of the history and tech mumbo-jumbo is out of the way, the next question is: What is it like to shoot?

I’ve shot 10 rolls thru my Magic since purchasing it from a reputable seller. The lightmeter is in good working order, and it came with the original case (no strap or lugs though) and lens cap. Having the orginal case and being stored in it is a good sign when purchasing one - if its sat on a shelf without something covering the meter, over time the light will kill the meter and the camera has to be used in manual mode only.

I shot nearly all of my images in Auto mode, and that’s mainly because I bought the camera for times when I didn’t want to fiddle with an external light meter - for example, while I am hiking and want to keep my carry weight down, or when I’m with Renee and she’s not interested in me pulling the light meter out of my pocket, getting a reading, setting the controls, etc, etc, etc. It’s also partially because the camera IS NOT EASY to use in manual mode. If you are wanting a TLR to shoot in manual mode, I’d recommend to stay away from the Magic, as its controls were mainly designed for Auto mode only.

The five-bladed aperture creates pentagonal bokeh, which is not unlke many other cameras I’ve used. The Schneider 3.5 lens is sharp, and when you nail focus its quality is on par with my 3.5E Rolleiflex. Below are some of the images from the rolls. Click on each one to view larger.

Is it all Rainbows and Roses though?

Well, no. There are some definite cons.

The viewing screen is dark as hell, and is difficult to compose with. Even after I pulled it out, cleaned it, and cleaned the mirror. I eventually purchased a cheap eBay split-prism screen to help with focusing, but its only marginally brighter. I don’t know what causes the screen to be so dark on this model as compared to the Rolleicord VB and Rolleiflex 3.5E.

Remember when I said mine didn’t come with a strap? At first I thought the lugs were the same as the Rolleiflex “Baby” 4x4, but of course, they aren’t. The straps for the Magic are difficult to find because they made relatively few of them compared to the many other Rolleicord and Rolleiflex models, so they are expensive. I found a strap at an online Goodwill store for a decent price, and then found some lugs without the leather strap for about the same price, and that’s what I am using now with the original strap in a bag for safe keeping.

I’m paranoid about the light cell dying, so I found a guy on eBay that makes a 3D-printed cover. This sits on the camera when I am carrying it around out of the case - but the trick is to remember to TAKE IT OFF before you shoot. Otherwise, no image for you.

The lens hood and cap are both Bay II standard, so they are the same as the Rolleiflex 3.5 models. Thankfully I had a spare hood in my parts box, otherwise that would have been an expensive upgrade. Bay II filters and hoods are more expensive than Bay I, but less than Bay III.

I think my biggest gripe with the Magic is the shutter lever. There’s no prevention or lock on it to keep you from accidentally taking a photo, and it sticks out. Way out. So every roll I shot had at least 1, if not 2, blank images from me accidentally hitting the shutter lever when taking it out or putting it in my bag.

Does it sound like I don’t like the Magic? No, I really do like it for what it is. And once I get used to its quirks, I’ll continue to use it more when I want something brainless to shoot with that still produces Rolleiflex quality images.

So is it an Ugly Ducking or an Unexpected Swan? I’d say it lies somewhere in the middle. Maybe a “Majestic Mallard”.

Would I recommend it to someone looking to get their first Rolleicord or Rolleiflex experience? No. I’d recommend someone buy an early Rolleiflex 3.5 Automat or a Rolleicord V (or VA/VB) and shoot with that. Once that person has the whole “Rollei experience” under their belt, then maybe consider the Magic as an addition to the collection for the same reasons I did. But stay away from the Magic I, and look for a Magic II with the original case.

Speaking of collection - I haven’t talked about it much here on the blog but I have a bit of a thing for Rolleicords and Rolleiflexes. Currently I have a total of 13 of them in my collection. Ranging from an early 1933 Rolleicord 1b to a Rolleiflex 2.8D, and many others in-between.

Look for more blogs on some of the Rolleis that I own and use in the coming few months.

Are you considering a Rollei Magic? Do you have any questions that I haven’t answered here? Please feel free to reach out!

As always, thanks for reading!

Jeremy